Lima & the Nasca Lines

So we are now on our final day of the honeymoon, feeling trepidatious about the epic journey back to the UK. We are staying in a five star hotel (thanks Helen!) with the best breakfast of the trip (French toast, Danishes, pork belly and more fruit than you can shake a stick at). On our last day in Cusco we had an awesome activity day on the river Urubamba, which snakes acoss Peru, passing Machu Picchu, feeding into the Amazon and ultimately ending up in the Atlantic Ocean. First of all we went white water rafting (thanks Rosie and Nick!). It was amazing - the rapids in Peru are grade 3, reaching grade 4 and even 5 in the rainy season (we are now at the end of the rainy season/just entering the dry season). No one fell in, to our guides disappointment, even when we began standing up for the grade 1 Rapids. After a few days of being driven around, it was really nice to be active. After lunch we then went to the zip lines (Thanks Claire and Craig!) which snaked over the trees and across the river. Safety isn't as important in Peru as in England, and we only used one carrabeena when climbing the insubstantial ladder to the first zip line. The zip line itself was incredibly fast, and it was amazing to be flying through the trees with a view of the mountains and the river below us. Unfortunately we didn't get any pictures of either endeavour, as we left the camera safely ensconced at the hotel. The next day we flew from Cusco to Lima, the capital of Peru and home to 1/3 of all Peruvians. Lima is located in a desert, and the only capital drier than Lima is Cairo in Egypt. Much like LA, the city is surprisingly green. On our first night we went to a light show at the fountain park in the city centre. One of the fountains was a labyrinth, which of course I careered into, and then became stuck. There were lots of thin jets of water that would spurt in unison at different heights, sometimes stopping altogether. When they stopped a battalion of children (plus me) would rush into the centre, and then try and escape whilst the jets spurted at different heights and frequencies. It was great fun. There was also a more sedate tunnel which we walked through, and a mahoosive line of fountains which were multicoloured. We also stopped to get a chorizo burger (the chips were inside the burger. Amazing) from a street vendor, which we munched as we wandered around.

Labyrinth fountain

The next day we pootled down to Nasca, which is a few hours down the coast towards Chile. The flight over the Nasca lines was awesome (thanks Harriet & Tim, Stephen & Mary and Chris and Judith!) although it did make me feel a bit sick afterwards. Nick was grinning like a Cheshire Cat throughout, and practically bounced out of the plane afterwards (whilst I slithered to the ground and tried not to throw up). The plane was tiny, with only six tourists and two pilots in each. They would wheel around each of the patterns so each side of the plane got a good view. The view of the desert as a whole was also incredible. Nobody knows why the ancient nascas made these patterns 1500 years ago, and research is still being done to try and work out whether they had religious meanings. It could be that they were for the benefit of pachamama, the ancient Mother Earth. 

Shaman

Tree (left) and bird (right)

Hummingbird

We ate ceviche for dinner, which is a Peruvian delicacy of raw fish and lime. So much lime! I think there was also coriander and garlic in there, but honestly it was hard to tell over the overpowering lime flavour. We then returned to Lima and had a couple of days chilling out in the hotel and by the sea, where we met Paddington Bear.   So, that's it. We are now at the airport waiting for our flight back to Europe. I am sad to leave this amazing continent, and I want to say again how grateful we are to everyone who donated towards our honeymoon! Thank you to Gran & Grandad, Uncle Harry & Auntie Wendy, Phillip & Ruth, Nick's HCV lab, Ciaran & Erin, Jo & Tom and finally Kate & Hilary for helping towards our flights. Thanks as well to the Davies family, Clare Breare, Ciaran & Erin, Donall, Roberta & Ross and finally Jack & Helena for our meals whilst we are here. I only got food poisoning once, which I take as a win! I hope I haven't forgotten anyone, and apologies if I have.

Inca Trail and Machu Picchu

Well, it is worth the hype. Machu Picchu is indeed absolutely stunning (thank you Kathy, Nat, Katie & Charis, Tom & Lisa, Bill & Alison, Shirley & Derek, Jack, Sue & Mike, Anne & Charlie, Marzena and Tim, Simon & Jane). I can see why the incas built their citadel surrounded by mountains, and I imagine it was a real wrench to leave when the Spanish invaded. I have an awful lot of photos below, but I will first give you a bit of a background on the incas. First of all, 'Inca' means king, and so there was only ever one Inca at a time. The rest of the population in the 1400s in South America were Quechuans. The inca trail spreads north and south from the citadel of Machu Picchu, where the Inca and his family lived, and covered all of the Quechuan empire. Messengers from the Inca would run this trail to collect taxes from the farthest reaches of the kingdom, and llamas would amble along it with panniers packed with potatoes (4000 varieties in Peru) for the royals. Along the trails there are terraces built into the hillside, which would be used to grow corn, potatoes and vegetables. The clever Quechuans even created microclimates within the terraces, with the thick stones in the lee of the wind retaining heat and keeping soil warm on the cold nights, whilst storehouses were slap bang in the wind, which made them natural fridges. You see these terraces across Peru, although they are not in use today.

Overlooking the sacred valley

Nick overlooking the terraces

We caught the train along the river Urubamba (which passes Machu Picchu and then feeds into the Amazon), and quite literally jumped off onto the train tracks about halfway along. There was about a metre drop between the (steep) train steps and the (uneven) ground, but luckily Nick and a train guard caught me as I flailed. We then joined the inca trail for a day's hike towards Machu Picchu. We weaved along the mountains, passing more terraces and climbing steeply. We actually didn't pass many people on the trail, which I found surprising. After lunch, Nick decided to run the last 6k and I met him at the sun gate, with a spectacular view of the citadel. On the 21st June (midsummer), the sun rises directly behind the sun gate, which funnels the light onto the altar in the church. This is a sign to the inca that the season is changing, from wet to dry, and the harvest will begin. The incas created many clever ways of harnessing the sun in religious ceremonies. They worshipped the mountains, the water and the sun, and most Peruvian men today wear a symbol to denote this. Our guide told us that although Peruvians will say that they are Catholic, and many attend church, in their hearts they worship the ancient inca gods.

Nick carrying my bag as well as his own when I got too out of breath

Inca trail

We met a llama on the terraces

 

The relief at reaching the sun gate was palpable, and we gently descended into the citadel. We then took the bus down the hill to our hotel in Aguas calientes, a small town at the base of the mountain. We planned on visiting Machu Picchu properly the next day, when our clothes weren't sodden with sweat. Our hotel was upgraded as a honeymoon present from Chimu Travels, our travel agent, and boy it was fancy. It was just what we needed after a 18k hike, uphill, in the blazing sun. There was a sweet note from the hotel manager on the biggest bed I have ever seen in my life. It was about double the size of a normal bed, and so soft! I could lie sideways on it, and there was still space for Nick. We also had cocktails and a three course dinner included, which was divine. At the end of the meal the waiters also brought out a cake with toffee sauce writing proclaiming that we should have a happy honeymoon! I would highly recommend this hotel if anyone goes to Machu Picchu. It was the best nights sleep I have had in ages.

The next day, showered and well rested, we got up at 5.30am to catch the bus back up to Machu Picchu at 6.15am. Already there was a huge queue of tourists waiting for the bus. Whilst there is an official UNESCO sanctioned limit of 2500 visitors a day, our guide sadly told us that as many people as turn up are allowed in, as the Peruvian government cares more about the money than the upkeep. The citadel only housed between 500-600 people in the inca times, and there were more people than that there when we arrived at 6.30am! However, I can see why so many people visit; it is stunning and the history is highly interesting. The citadel is shaped like a condor, which can only be seen from above. The Quechuans liked to shape their cities like animals to please the gods; Ollayantambo is shaped like a llama and I think Cusco used to be shaped like a puma, before it grew. We spent a few hours wandering around and enjoying the views, before heading back down to Aguas Calientes and catching the train back to Cusco.

Machu Picchu

Wayna Picchu (mountain), seen from the citadel

Houses in the citadel

Lake Titicaca

Our first stop in Peru was Puno, a small town on the shores of Lake Titicaca. We visited two islands on the lake; Taquile Island (thanks Cathy, Ashley, Phillipa and Charlotte!) and one of the floating Uros Islands (thanks Ellen and Stuart & Sandra!). Taquile island reminded me of Italy - it was green and hilly, with sandy beaches, clear water and views of snow capped mountains in Bolivia. We met some locals, who gave us peppermint tea (it tasted like a mix between peppermint and thyme - tasty) and we watched the men knitting and the women weaving. Knitting is solely a man's job, as it is easier than the finicky, intricate weaving the women were doing. The men all wore hats to denote their marital status; a white hat flopped over one ear meant he was single, whilst a folded white hat meant that he was in a relationship. A coloured hat with blue shot through meant he was married. Women wore large black cloths on their head, which also doubled as handy carrying bags which they wrapped around their shoulder to carry weaving, shopping and babies. The black headscarf originated from the hijab, which was brought over from southern Spain, but the women adapted the scarfs to have large, colourful pom-poms at each corner. Large, bright pom-poms meant the women was single, whereas smaller, muted pom-poms meant that she was married.  

Taquile island overlooking the Bolivian mountains

Taquile gents knitting

Taquile islanders have a unique custom with regard to marriage. When a young couple decide they want to get married, they first live together in their parents' house for one year, to decide whether they are well matched. If at the end of this year they decide that they no longer want to commit, both walk away unscathed. During this year, the girl will weave her betrothed a belt made from her hair to wear on the wedding day. There are never any pregnancies during this trial year, as the couple both take a daily contraceptive drink made from plants on the island. This custom feels refreshingly modern (although I'm not so keen on the belt-hair part!).

 

Arch from the cover of the Peru lonely planet

    We next visited the Uros floating islands. These were conceived out of necessity; the tribes originally lived in the banks of the lake, but were forced to take to the water after being invaded and taken over by other tribes. The islands are made of reeds, and only last 15 years, with a weekly top up of reeds required. The base of the islands are made from roots of reeds which are sewn together. Lots of layers of cut reeds are then placed over the top. This makes the islands spongy and springy, much like walking on a bouncy castle. The islands are about 10x10 metres and hold up to five families on each. Chickens, ducks and cats also live on the islands. Recently the islands have included solar panels, which power TVs. The islanders fish from boats (also made from reeds) and sell their wares to tourists. Children travel daily to the mainland to go to school. As the islanders technically don't live on any land, the Peruvian government doesn't recognise them as citizens and they do not get any help from the state. They also have to be careful that their islands don't float into Bolivian waters, as they don't own passports. 

Uros floating island

House on Uros - see the solar panel?

Uros children

 

Goodbye Bolivia; Hello Peru!

I wanted to start this post by telling you which day we left Bolivia, but I have to admit that I am not entirely sure what day it is today, and even so I can't remember if we left two or three days ago. Anyway, it doesn't add a huge amount to this post to know the exact day of our cross country shlep (other than to illustrate how relaxed I am that I can't remember details such as the date), so I will just say that we left La Paz's crumbling, dusty streets and entered Peru a mere 6 hours later. If there were such things as the M1 in Bolivia I estimate that the drive would have taken about a third of this time, as for a significant portion of the journey we were crawling along at 15mph, swerving (if one can indeed swerve at such low speeds) to avoid llamas and old ladies wearing top hats. Thankfully, our velocity picked up once we made it across the border.   So first, a quick summary of Bolivia before I go on to describe our first Peruvian stop. Bolivia is a land of extremes; it is the poorest country in South America, but it has the richest amount of resources (including petrol, silver, gold and tin). Temperatures across the country vary from -35 to 40 degrees Celsius, and the country has rainforests, deserts and snow capped mountains. The altitude is incredibly high (averaging about 3800 metres) which can play havoc with one's body. There were not many travellers in Bolivia (especially when compared to Peru), but the tourist trade is hotting up, and tiny travel agencies are springing up across La Paz. However, facilities are basic; cold water only in some hotels, nowhere accepts credit or debit cards and the toilets often don't have seats (and never have toilet paper or hand wash). However, the scenery is truly exceptional and the Andean people are smiling and friendly. I would recommend a visit to you all, as long as you bring some Imodium and hand wash!   Peru is a richer country than Bolivia, which was immediately apparent as soon as we crossed the border. The roads are better, the streets cleaner and the adverts more garish. We arrived in Puno, a small town on the edge of Lake Titicaca, after a brief stop for lunch in an airy restaurant with huge windows. We were eyeballed by a lugubrious alpaca as we ate, which was rather disconcerting. On the plus side, we had stewed peaches and evaporated milk for pudding, which was divine. I ate rather too much (I was trying to avoid the cameloid's icy glare) and so got back on the bus groaning with an overstuffed stomach. Our hotel in Puno was a step above our accommodation in Bolivia, and we wholly enjoyed the windows (windows! In the room!) and soft pillows. However. With these luxuries came an influx of other tourists, who were significantly older than the twenty-somethings we had left behind. I got stuck in the lift with an elderly French lady who couldn't work out how the floor numbers worked, and kept getting out on every floor, and then dashing back into the lift jabbering in French. I took the stairs from then on.      

Uyuni: Salt Flats and Silohi desert

We have just come back from Uyuni; a small town south of La Paz and close to the Chile and Argentina borders. Great trip, but it was absolutely freezing and there was no hot water capabilities anywhere in the area (and don ask about the toilets). Consequently we haven't showered in three days. That will be first on the agenda when we arrive back in La Paz tonight! On our first day we joined a tour group and visited the salt flats (thanks Tom & Lorren, Jade, Chris, Joe and Maeve). The salt flats used to be a huge lake, which joined lake Titicaca to the ocean. After volcanic activity thousands of years ago, the salt flats were pushed upwards and as they dried out, they became a desert covered in salt. It truly looks out of this world, and is so strange to walk on! As far as you can see there is just shimmering white against a turquoise sky. We stopped for lunch in a large building made completely of salt; the walls, tables and chairs were all constructed from thick blocks. The roads across the flats are barely perceptible, and whilst driving one has to invoke sailing skills, heading for one point on the horizon rather than following a track. Our hotel was also totally made of salt, including the bricks and mortar. It's the first time I've been in a hotel room with crunchy salt gravel on the floor rather than carpet!

Salt flats

Island in middle of salt flats

Sunset on the salt flats

  From the salt flats, we chugged past herds of llamas and learned that they are perhaps the easiest livestock to own. There is a head llama honcho of each pack, who takes the herd out to graze each morning and then brings them back each night. Llamas dislike other animals, including foxes, and so are quite safe to roam freely as they scare away any predators. They are so protective of their own that Bolivian families often leave their babies in the care of the llamas, who will keep them safe. The llamas are adorned with colourful threads intwined in their ear flaps, and different colours denote who the llama belongs to. A rather prettier solution compared to spray painting sheep! We also motored past fields and fields of quinoa, which is a major export for Bolivia and has shot up in price since becoming cool with hipsters in the US and Australia. Red quinoa has the most health benefits, and is used to build muscle in astronauts. Our guide claimed that quinoa is also the  reason that everyone in Bolivia lives to 90 without ever getting dementia, but I am less convinced of these assertions!

 

On our second day we visited the Silohi desert (thanks Freda and Andy), including the rock tree made famous by Salvador Dahli. Whilst Mr Dahli painted a lot of Bolivian landscapes, it transpires he never actually visited the country himself, taking inspiration instead from photos. The clouds here were beautiful - I don't know if it was the altitude or another reason but they looked like whorls of ice cream. I spent as much time looking at the clouds as at the scenery. The mountains were stunning, hewn from a reddish rock with snow lightly dusting the tops. The soil in Bolivia is very rich in minerals including lithium, borax, copper and arsenic. This turns the lakes various colours, depending on the quantity of each. 

Dali rocks

Rock tree

On this trip we reached a maximum height of 5010 metres, which is higher than the skydive we did in 2009! I suffered from altitude sickness here, having to nap in the evening rather than eat dinner. I did wake up in time to experience the hot spring fed swimming pool under the stars. I have never seen such a clear sky in my life; you could clearly see the Milky Way and when the moon rose it was light enough to not need torches. Full disclosure: the photo of the stars below was not taken by us, but by another chap in our tour group.

View of the stars whilst swimming in the hot strings

  We are now waiting at the airport ready to fly back to La Paz. Tomorrow we leave Bolivia and travel to Peru!

Corico smells like honey pancakes

It really does. After two days in La Paz, which smells like any city in a developing country (too many people, festering rubbish, petrol and cooking oil), the countryside three hours east of the city smells like honey pancakes. I assume there is a South American variety of honeysuckle which lollops across the verges and gives the whole area this pleasingly pungent aroma. The ecolodge we are staying in is absolutely stunning - we are set into the hillside (the climb to our cabana is literally breathtaking, due to forty stairs in an oxygen starved country), but goodness is it worth it. We have one room with a bed, fridge and tiny stove, an outside seating area, an outdoor bathroom and a balcony. The water comes from a natural spring, so is drinkable and the shower is warmed by the sun throughout the day. There is the most spectacular view from our balcony, with rolling hills and distant snow capped mountains. We watch wheeling birds visit peculiar hanging nests as the morning mist drifts lazily below us. As Nick sat on his deckchair with a cervesa (beer) in hand, he declared that this was the moment he would come back to in the future when life got all life-y. I have to say that I agree.  

The next day we got up early to see the cascadas (waterfalls) on a three hour hike (thank you Tyler, Mark, Alice and Duncan). We walked along a track which looked out onto the stunning view of the hills as the sun beat down on us. Of course, we smelled the honey pancakes the whole way. The road passed many minor waterfalls (which we took advantage of to cool our feet) but none could compare to the waterfall we finished at. It was hundreds of metres high and tumbled lacksidasically through lush green vegetation, gently showering us with welcome droplets. We paddled in the pool underneath the waterfall (we didn't swim though - the water was too cold for full body immersion) before catching a local bus home.

Waterfall walk

Cascada

Biggest Cascada

Today, we visited the moon.

Gosh, it's high here. I made the mistake of taking the stairs to our room two at a time, and needed a lie down afterwards to recover. There is not a lot of oxygen in the air, which takes some getting used to. Our highlight of the day was a trip to Moon Valley (thanks Emma, Jack and Jade!) where we wandered among pointy stacks of rock reminiscent of Star Wars. Health and Safety was mostly absent, which when mixed with an oxygen starved brain, made for some interesting moments! Likewise, when I got too excited and decided to run along the track and my lungs shrivelled. Afterwards, we visited the coca museum, which documents the use of coca use in Bolivia and it's illegal use as cocaine. It used to be compulsory for Bolivian slaves to chew coca leaves, as this made them more productive and less hungry. 

 

Tomorrow it's off to the ecolodge!